Everest, Inc.:The Renegades and Rogues who Built An Industry at the Top Of The World, Cockrell - B

                In the forty years after Hillary's first summit, 349 people climbed Everest. In the past three decades, over 11,000 have. Ninety percent of the recent summiteers were clients of a handful of mountain-guiding companies. Seventy percent of climbers reach the summit compared to ten percent before the guiding companies began. This is the story of how the change took place.

               In 1985, 55 year-old Texas oilman Dick Bass summited Everest on his fourth try. He was the first to achieve the Seven Summits and an amateur who paid professionals to help him. His success inspired a new approach to mountaineering. A year later, a company was offering guided trips to all seven summits. Guiding on Everest would prove to be a challenge because it is very easy for people to die in the death zone above 26,000 feet. Hypoxia, high altitude pulmonary or cerebral edema are very real risks.  And guides, by definition are supposed to stick with their customers. "By 1990, most experienced Himalayan climbers would agree that the list of veteran mountain guides with the experience, nerves, and logistic prowess to pull off an Everest climb could probably fit in a fortune cookie." However in the spring of 1992, "eight average Joes" were the first guided to the summit. Guiding amateurs to the top was possible and soon the business boomed.

               "The percentage of expeditions on Everest that were guided had gone from zero in 1989 to about forty in 1995." Everyone was proud that there had been no casualties. The following year that would change. Rob Hall was a noted New Zealand alpinist and the most successful guide on the mountain. His 1996 trip included Jon Krakauer, a journalist working for 'Outside' magazine. On May 10th, approximately 33 climbers guided by two different companies made the attempt. Hall and handful of his clients summited at 1:45 pm, a quarter of an hour before the agreed upon turnaround time. Hall did not stick to the turnaround time, summited with his final client at 4 pm, and was  then notified by base camp that a storm was coming in. Eight people died that day including Hall. Krakauer's award-wining magazine article was called 'Into Thin Air' as was his best-selling book.  Krakauer's writings piqued worldwide interest and an influx of technology soon allowed live streaming and sat calls from the mountain. In 1999, the discovery of Mallory's remains was flashed around the world.

           Soon, record numbers were climbing.The lead guide companies "had installed so many redundancies and systems, coopted so much technology, and hired an increasingly talented and well-trained Sherpa workforce, that they believed they could get just about anybody to the top." Better weather forecasting and a medical facility at the base camp helped. The Sherpa's were the backbone of the mountain climbing culture and were seldom recognized or paid handsomely for their death defying efforts every day. Many started their own guide companies. Approximately a decade ago, climate change began to affect the mountain. In 2014, an avalanche killed 16 Nepalis. The Sherpas refused to work and the 2014 season was shut down. The following year, an earthquake struck the base camp killing 19.

        The two tragedies reduced the number of western climbers and guides, and soon companies headed by Nepali's, Japanese and Indians were hosting more and more Asian clients. Also, a portion of the Hillary Step broke away, easing the path to the summit. A Nepali climbed the fourteen 8,000 meter peaks in seven months and captured the climbing world's attention. The guiding businesses expanded to the 8K peaks.  Today, it is a mostly Nepali owned business, and climbing the highest mountain on earth remains as enthralling, enticing, and beautiful as ever.